Thursday 7 June 2012

Day 77 - Cartagena, Colombia (3 June 2012)

Day 77 – Cartagena, Colombia (3 June 2012)

The previous night we had booked ourselves in for a tour to the largest mud volcano in Colombia.  The tour costs us COP$30,000 each.  This includes pick up from the hostel, transport to and from the mud volcano which is about an hour out of town and entry into the mud volcano.  You don’t need to book the tour group, you can get out there and do everything yourself, but it seems too much of a hassle and would only cost COP$5,000 less to do it this way.  Also it would be a full day travelling to and from the volcano and with the tour, we would be back in the city at about 1.30pm so it was a no brainer really.  We get picked up from the hostel at 8.30am, exactly the time that was organised! Very un-South American like.  However, we were the first to be picked up, we then spend the next hour driving around Cartagena picking up other tourists.  In saying this, it was a good opportunity to see the city, including the new area of town, which I had wanted to have a look at.  After driving through, I realised there was nothing to see, it was best viewed from a distance.  We left Cartagena at 9.30am bound for the mud volcano, which is called Volcan de Lodo El Totumo.  It is located on the bank of a very shallow lagoon, which would come in very handy later.  The volcano is the largest mud volcano in Colombia, but it is only a 15 metre high mound that looks like a miniature volcano, but instead of lava it spews mud forced out by the pressure of gases emitted by decaying organic matter underground.  The mud contains minerals acclaimed for their therapeutic properties.

We arrived at the volcano about 10.30am, got told to undress (to our togs), gave our cameras to a guy to take photos which cost COP$3,000 per camera (definitely worth it) and walked to the top of the volcano.  We climbed to the top by specially built stairs, and then waited about five minutes until we could enter the mud, which was luke warm and very comfortable.  When we got in the mud we were made to lie down, and we were covered head to toe by guys who were giving everyone a massage.  I thought this was part of the package but it wasn’t, it cost another COP$3,000 per person and the massage was for about five minutes, definitely worth it, although Ann didn’t really enjoy it as she didn’t feel comfortable lying in the mud as you didn’t have too much control, it was very hard to keep your balance, there was no bottom to stand on!  After our massages we spent another 45 minutes just relaxing in the mud, it was great! At first there were not too many people in the volcano, but as time went on more people arrived, probably another tourist bus, and suddenly we were all packed into the volcano like sardines.  After a bit of chaos with a couple of overweight gentlemen losing their balance and kicking mud in people’s eyes, we decided to get out, we had had a great time in the mud and we didn’t want to taint our experience by having mud in our eyes.  45 minutes was a good amount of time.  We then got the rub down by a fella waiting for people to exit the mud, and then made our way down to the lagoon to clean ourselves.  This was a mission in itself because mud was everywhere, and I mean everywhere! After we cleansed ourselves, we made our way back into town, on the way dropping people off who opted for the lunch option which was an additional cost. 

We both had a shower when we got back to the hostel, got ourselves feeling clean and went for a walk to Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas.  Several forts were built at key points outside the walls of old town to protect the city from pirates, but this huge stone fortress is by far the greatest.  Construction began in 1639 but was not completed for another 150 years.  We explore this fortress from top to bottom, including the tunnels which go underground, we didn’t know when they were going to end!  These tunnels are very complex and were designed very cleverly as they were built to facilitate the supply and evacuation of the fort.  The design also amplified sound to make the approach of enemies more apparent.

We then made our way back to the inner walled city.  This was very quiet as it was a Sunday afternoon and also we later found out that the Colombian national football team was playing Peru that afternoon aswell in a World Cup qualification match (won 1-0 by Colombia, the locals were all glued to the screen, and people were sitting in the streets outside pubs watching the game).  While in old town we had a look at Las Bovedas, 23 dungeons built in the defensive walls at the end of the 18th century destined for military purposes.  Today the dungeons are used as tourist shops so we had a look at all of these.  Then it was supermarket time to pick up dinner and head back to the hostel to cook up a storm!

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